Dominio de Anza Bierzo 'Seleccion de Parcelas' 2022 750ml
Native of Navarra and son of the pioneering Juan Magaña of the iconic Viña Magaña estate, Diego Magaña has rapidly consolidated his position since 2014 as one of northern Spain’s young stars. Though still at the reins of the family domaine, his personal projects in Bierzo and the Rioja Alavesa stand among the finest examples of those appellations being produced.
Dominio de Anza is his Bierzo label, and it’s fitting that the wines are produced in a corner of Raúl Pérez’s bodega in Valtuille de Abajo, since it was through his friendship with Raúl and love of the master’s wines that Magaña was drawn to Bierzo in the first place (the idea was even hatched on a shared sales trip to the United States). Diego’s style, though, is confidently all his own, and critics are taking note: last year, the perceptive Luis Gutiérrez of The Wine Advocate was moved to offer his kudos on a ‘flat out great’ collection of ‘brilliant reds’ singled out as ‘truly outstanding, among the best produced in the appellation’.
Magaña harvests impeccable fruit from very old vines (80-100 years is the rule, not the exception) and lets it speak in its own voice through painstaking control of a tiny surface (a scant 3-4 hectares over a handful of parcels). In the hallowed Rapolao cru, for instance, he harvests less than a hectare of vines in multiple passes and then declassifies half the fruit. (This is practically unheard of in the appellation.) As is typical of old plants in Bierzo, Mencía predominates, complemented by Bastardo (Trousseau) and Garnacha Tintorera (Alicante Bouschet) with some plants of the white Doña Blanca sneaking in. Fermentations proceed with natural yeasts in neutral wooden vessels (large, though size varies according to vintage and yield) and greater or lesser degrees of whole-cluster inclusion (again—as the vineyard and vintage dictates. ‘Mi receta es que no hay receta’, says Diego: the recipe is there is no recipe.) The wines are raised in large tinas and 225-500L barrels.
His entry-level red, called Selección de Parcelas, provides a tour of the northwestern quadrant of Bierzo in one bottle, combining fruit from the higher-altitude slate-and-granite soils of Los Rosales in Otero, the sandy clay of El Val in Valtuille de Abajo, and the rocky, iron-rich clay of the renowned El Rapolao, also in Valtuille. It’s a stunning regional blend that punches far above its weight class. His top wine is unquestionably the single-vineyard rendition of El Rapolao, rapidly gaining prominence as one of the best and most distinctive sites in Bierzo and worked by other luminaries such as Raúl Pérez, César Marquez, Gerardo Michelini, and Antoine Graillot. The fluid finesse delivered by its protected, northwest exposition and Diego’s gentle hand in the cellar is truly remarkable.
- Mostly Mencía, with some Bastardo (Trousseau) and Garnacha Tintorera
- Hand-harvested from very old vines from a few parcels with various soils, altitudes and expositions, including Los Rosales, El Val, and the renowned El Rapolao
- Fermented spontaneously in large wooden tinas
- Raised for about a year in used 225-500L barrels
- 375 cases produced
"The 2022 Dominio de Anza Selecci¢n de Parcelas comes from the same plots as the 2021 with small variations, and it fermented mostly destemmed because he feared the concentration from the year. Although it's only 12.9% alcohol, the wine has ripe aromas of berries, even some raisins, and the palate is more generous, a little rounder and softer but keeping good tension. It seems to be aging at a faster pace. However, three hours later, the wine was a lot fresher, the sensations of very ripeness had disappeared. It's a ripe year, yes, but there is no excess, and the wine felt a lot more balanced, even less evolved and younger than the sensations I found earlier on. Decant a couple of hours in advance? 14,700 bottles produced. It was bottled in March 2024, after 12 months in used oak vats and foudres.94+ points" Robert Parker's Wine Advocate